CH.FD · 0519 READ 07.27 · 20:18 PT DISPATCH · Nº 0519 · WHAT I KEEP NOTICING Why LaCroix A cold can, a loud little crack, and a flavor that arrives mostly as rumor: Issue 02 asks how sparkling water turns almost nothing into an occasion The first taste is not the first thing. First comes the refrigerator light. Then the cold aluminum. Then the thumb under the tab and the sharp domestic thunder of a can opening in a quiet room.